Laumprel

Laumprel is a London-based womenswear label, designed and produced in the UK. It draws on a wide range of cultural and artistic heritage, and dresses women who are independent and self-possessed while keeping a romantic side — a mix the brand calls Mysterious Romance. We were proud to work with its founder, Malika.

Laumprel is the house we have worked with across the most stages: patterns cut from drawings, toiles fitted and corrected, samples made in the final cloth, and production runs delivered.

The work

Mostly occasionwear, which means the most unforgiving cloth in the trade. Corded lace has to be matched across every seam so the pattern runs unbroken. Velvet has a pile that changes colour depending on which way it runs, so every piece must be cut in the same direction or the finished dress looks like two dresses. Bias-cut velvet moves while it is being cut and keeps moving afterwards, so it is cut single-ply and left to hang before the hem is levelled.

Tiered bell sleeves, ruffled tiers, scalloped lace hems and open backs are construction problems before they are design features. Getting them to sit correctly is pattern work, not just sewing.